At the beginning of October 1990, I arrived in Johannesburg for the first time. After months of nagging, the South African embassy had issued me a visa. I had never bridged such a distance flying. I was extremely nervous. Changing flights in Rome, I found myself amongst a herd of Afrikaners singing Sari Mareis. Then the airplane took us back to the old Transvaal. Upon arrival the sign Verbeteringe in Wording – Under Construction – struck me. Next to a display of weapons. A visitor’s guide to How To Recognize a Terrorist?